We're slowly swimming our way down the East Coast - not literally-pretty much visiting a different small beach town every couple of days. Today we're in Noosa and we've hit the first of the big surfing areas. Got a shock when I landed in here as it was only 20 degrees and cloudy. Had to dig out my one and only jumper from the bottom of my rucksack where its being going musty since chilly Peru. Dusted the cobwebs off and made a mental resolve to get the first flight back to Cairns if the weathr didn't improve the next day. Of course it did and after a morning messing around in the surf I'm a little bit pink like a medium rare steak. The pinkness though could be due to a wave battering rather than too much sun. I'd like to give the illusion I was out catching the big ones on the reef, of course nothing could be further from the truth. Despite my liking for the surf lifestyle I'm definitely more at home wearing Billabong rather than standing on a Billabong board. Truth is, although I'm happy swimming, snorkeling and diving I don't like water going over my head, a disadvantage if you want to surf. I did well today though and tried to swim back to shore on one giant one (probably all of half a foot high) only to swamped beneath it. I didn't panic, held my breath and broke for the surface. I hadn't drowned! I had survived! Feeling proud I stood up, only to realise I was standing in water that just reached mid shin. I don't think Kelly Slater needs to worry just yet.
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